Bell & Ross recently announced a new version of the BR 05 GMT with a silvered white dial, adding a second colour option to the BR 05 line of integrated bracelet-styled GMT models. The caller’s GMT has a crisp red 24-hour hand that looks great with the silver dial and is the first time B&R designers have offered the BR 05 in colour other than black and blue. I think they chose well.
Like the black dial BR 05 GMT introduced last year, the BR 05 GMT White uses a 41mm steel case with an all-steel strap or a rubber strap designed to integrate directly with the case and its unconventional lug shape. The case is 11.07 mm thick, has a screw-down crown, is water-resistant to 100 meters, and has sapphire crystals on the front and back.
Inside, we find a GMT movement based on the Sellita SW-330, which Bell & Ross calls the BR-Cal 325. It’s an automatic movement that spins at 4 Hz, has a power reserve of about 42 hours, features a date at three o’clock, and an incoming 24-hour independently adjustable GMT function. This means you can adjust your view of the second time zone without altering or destroying the main time display. While a bit cumbersome to use when actively changing time zones, this GMT function is very handy for keeping track of a second time zone.
While I still totally love the white dial GMT, that’s not the only reason I think this new Bell & Ross deserves a closer look – I’ve been curious about the BR 05 since the introduction of the 40mm automatic model in 2019. I like the design and instrument-like approach to the Genta-derived integrated bracelet sports replica watch format. Also, the size seems good and looks good on the wrist. Bell and Ross have always interested me, but I’ve never found one of their quirky square-case models to work well on my skinny wrist. Maybe a bracelet will make all the difference.
Now they have a GMT with a white dial. Sure, the dial and hands borrow from the Explorer II. Still, they’re far from the only brand to find some inspiration through the replica Rolex catalogue, and I think the square case and overall aesthetic keep the BR 05 GMT from feeling too similar. In addition, I like that they kept a lot of the Bell and Ross design language on the dial (especially the large Arabic markers) and used a white/grey 24-hour scale.
At $5,000 and using a third-party movement, the BR 05 GMT has stiff competition. Collectors with traditional tastes might opt for the Tudor Black Bay GMT, which offers local jumping hours (flyback), classic GMT styling, and the same-width case.
But to be fair, the BR 05 GMT offers a completely different look and feel than the competitors, as mentioned above. I don’t think Bell & Ross is new to this price point, and cost sensitivity is likely not a core concern of B&R’s target audience. As someone who has long hung onto the BR 03-92 Diver rent-free, this new BR 05 GMT marks the first time I’ve been more professionally curious about the lineup, and I think it’s a beautiful addition that I’m eager to try on my wrist. But what do you think – is the BR 05 GMT a good candidate for a hands-on follow-up? Please let me know in the comments.